Ask the Gardener Forum

As the Gardener was started shortly after we launch out site to help our surfers answer their gardening questions. We've covered a lot in these past years and am still helping people today.

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No, January is not the correct time to prune roses in your area. The best time to prune roses is just before they break dormancy. Don't prune roses until you completely remove winter protection and frost danger is past. Prune before new leaves develop.
Q. I live in central pennsylvania can i trim rose bushes now in january
A.
Q. We need to transplant our burning bush because it's being overtaken by some ornamental grass. Is it best to move in the fall or spring?
A. It would be best to move it in the fall. Have the hole ready for the plant before you dig it up and be sure to water it very, very well. Good Luck!
Q. I moved 2 knockout roses that a friend gave me. I had to move them while they were in bloom. This was august 1st 2011. I had the holes dug before I dug them up. Most all the leaves have turned brown and dropping off. There are still several green leaves left and the stems are very healthy looking. Is there anything else I need to do to get the knockouts to survive?
A. It is such a difficult time of year to move roses. I would be sure to keep them well watered ... do not drown them ... however, keeping the soil moist for the first month or so is very important. This may mean a daily watering is needed. Also, be sure to fertilize them. Although I do not recommend fertilizing roses this late in the season, in this instance, it is crucial. A slow release, organic feed would be most beneficial. Be sure to protect them well for the winter. They will benefit from some "babying" to get them through this transition. Good Luck!
Q. Deadheading Daylilies
I have several "reblooming" daylilies including stella doro. Do they need to be cutback/deadheaded after flowering to allow them rebloom? If the seed pod forms will that prevent rebloom? Should the seed pod be cut back?
A. Yes, they should be deadheaded after blooming. Only the flower stem needs to be cut back. You would like to avoid having the seed pod form as this robs the plant of energy needed to produce more flowers. So, in essence, yes, it delays reblooming. The seed pods should be cut back.
Q. Do hosta blooms need to be deadheaded?
A. Once the flower has faded you may cut the flower from the plant by following the stem to the base of the plant and clipping it there.
Q. I just planted perennials and they look like their dying. Do they go into shock before coming back?
A. They do become a bit stressed ... be sure to supply them with adequate water ... they should be receiving water every other day for approximately the first month. Also, be sure to prune off any flowers that may have died. A good fertilizing will be helpful as well. Good Luck!!
Q. I live in chicago area, would it be ok to trim my burning bushes at this time?
A. Yes, you can trim your burning bushes now.
Q. I recently planted "River Dance" Iris and the next day the flowers were dried up. Should I deadhead them?
A. Yes, you should deadhead them.
Q. I recently purchased some stella d'oro daylilies. I didn't plant them for about 2 weeks. By then all of the blooms were gone. I finally planted them, deadheaded them, and cut the sticks. When can I expect new blooms?
A. You can expect new blooms very soon. Give them a chance to get settled and they will flower for you this season. Enjoy!
Q. I live on the water and would like to plant Stella D'Oro Daylilies. I know they do well in sandy soil but will they withstand some wind off the water?
A. The wind shouldn't bother them. Do, however, keep in mind that wind can be very drying to plants. You may need to do some additional watering especially when they are establishing themselves. I would try a few and see how they do.
Q. Can I cut the dead sticks from daylilies any time?
A. Yes you can.
Q. Should you dead head stella doro daylilies?
A. Yes, Stella D'oro daylilies should be deadheaded.
Q. I have two large Rose of Sharon bushes that were just transplanted first of June. They are very stressed. What can I do except keep them watered. They have horse manure and cow manure around them. I live in central Michigan.
A. Transplanting Rose of Sharon in June is very difficult on the plant. I am sure they are in shock and going through a difficult time. Keeping them well watered is crucial. I would also make sure that they are given an organic, slow-release feed granular fertilizer. I would feed them now and again the first of August and again the first of October. This will help them while they transition. I hope they do well for you.
Q. I have 3 burning bushes. Two look great, but one the leaves are curling and a darker green color. WHat is this and how do I get rid of? SHould I cut the curling leaves off?
A. Usually when you see leaves curling on any plant, it is evidence of an insect infestation. Remove one of the curled leaves, open it up and inspect the inside. If you see insects, take the leaf to your local favorite garden center and ask what product would be best to spray on it. Be careful and be sure to read all of the directions prior to spraying.
Q. I have 2 lilac bushes, one a white bloom and the other a purple and white verigated bloom. Each is next to my deck. Two years ago I cut each way back. One of them bloomed slightly this year, the other has yet to bloom. Now each of them is horrendously overgrown at 7 to 9 ft tall and blocks the view from our deck and I now, mid June, cannot stand it anymore and need to transplant or cut them way back again and then transplant in fall or more appropriate time. What should I do?
A. What I believe has happened is that you pruned them too severely. When pruning it is always good to keep in mind that no more than 1/3 of the plant should be pruned away. This way, the plant suffers less stress, is able to rebound from the pruning and will continue to do well i.e. production of flowers. It may take a few years of pruning to get a plant to the size that you would like. The one plant that produced some flowers for you is doing well. The other plant that has yet to bloom is still probably a bit shocked and may bloom for you next year. If, however, you choose to transplant these shrubs, you will, again, be set back in terms of flowers. The best time for transplanting will be in the fall before Halloween. Sometime between the middle to the latter part of October is a perfect time. Transplanting them now will be very detrimental to the plant. Pruning them again at this time of year would be okay as long as you follow the advice of only taking away 1/3 of the plant. Be prepared though that next year you most likely will be flowerless. Good Luck!!
Q. How soon can I plant annuals in this area - I live in area 5 - Ferndale, MI. I'm planting annuals in 13 urns in front of our church - when is it safe??
A. It would be best to wait until the threat of frost has lessened. I would recommend planting annuals in your area around the time of Memorial Day and not much sooner.
Q. I live in central Indiana & was told not to mulch over iris that they like their rhizomes to be exposed. Is this true & if so, do you need to do anything (such as applying a layer of mulch over them) to protect them from the freezing winter temperatures?
A. What you were told was absolutely correct. You needn't do anything to protect the iris in the winter. Just leave them as is.
Q. I have coral bells all along my fence and was wondering if i should cut them down like a hosta for winter or just leave them alone and just prune old dried up leaves in spring?
A. I would recommend cutting back the foliage.
Q. I just purchased a bunch of plum pudding, miracle, and the full sun version of coral bells at a big box store. They all seem huge and unruly and look to be root bound (very pronounced stalk). I have seen these before in a neighbor's garden and they were nicely mounded. Are these root bound since they are so big? Should they be trimmed back?? Is there anything that I should to to help them out?
A. It sounds as though they are root bound. My suggestion would be to take them out of the pot and then slice directly down the center of the plant so that you now have two plants instead of one. This will release the root compaction and help the plant to put out new root growth. Be sure to water it well with planting and keep it well watered for approximately three weeks to help reduce the stress. Also, fertilize. Enjoy!
Q. I moved here S. Central PA 13 years ago this lilac bloomed like crazy. Then about 7 years ago it was getting so big I had trimmed down very hard (not knowing how to trim it then correctly). ever since then, nice green bush grew back, but it has not bloom at all. People say to be patience it will come back. What's your answer?
A. What you have been told is correct. A very hard pruning on a lilac will impact the blooming and it may take some time. My recommendation to perhaps help this along would be to fertilize this spring with a slow-release, organic, granular fertilizer with a low nitrogen level. Speak to someone at your favorite nursery/garden center and explain your situation and I'm sure they will understand what I am suggesting. You want to help promote blooms and not foliage. A fertilizer that I am suggesting will do just that. In the future, prune your lilac of dead blooms after it is done flowering and be sure to have any other pruning (for size) done by early summer. Keep in mind, also, when pruning, try not to remove more than 30% of the plant's total growth. It may take a couple of years to get a plant down to the size you would like.
Q. I live in Kentucky and the beginning of last summer I transferred five burning bushes (all about 3~4 feet tall) to my yard. All did really well and turned in the fall as expected. At the end of fall I trimmed them back a little and after about one month they began to look very dry. Right now they have very little leaf growth and still seem dry. What should I do?
A. What I expect has happened is that they have gone into a bit of shock. To transplant and prune a plant of that maturity all in the same growing season is an awful lot for the plant to handle. Perhaps if you had waited until this season for the pruning, it would have been better. However, my recommendation at this point would be to feed them fairly heavy with a slow-release, organic, granular fertilizer. Keep them well watered as well. Hopefully, they will respond. Good Luck!!
Q. What time of the year should one trim spireas?
A. Because there are many different varieties of spireas, there are also different pruning times. For the most part, spireas should be pruned after flowering. When pruning, be sure to remove a proportion of the older wood.
Q. After Poppy's have flowered, do you cut off the stem, and do they flower only once a year? I live in Northern Minnesota.
A. Yes, once poppies have flowered you do want to cut off the flower stem. Some varieties flower only once a year while other varieties flower all summer long. Check with your favorite nursery/garden center for more information on the different varieties of poppies.
Q. Do you cut back the foliage of irises and day lilies, if so how far back and when do you cut them ?
A. Yes, the foliage of iris and daylilies do get cut back. It is done in the late fall and cut back to approximately 2"-3". In the meantime, however, you can cut back the spent blooms on the plants. Just wait until the end of the season to cut the foliage down.
Q. My burning bushes leaves seem to be curling, any suggestions?
A. Curling leaves generally indicate some type of insect activity. I would recommend taking a leaf off and pulling it open and looking for insects. Depending on what you fine, the plant may need to be sprayed.
Q. Do iris's need to be deadheaded after the flowers are spent?
A. Yes, it is best for the health of the plant if you deadhead after the flowers are spent.
Q. We live in Northern New Jersey and planted about 15 Arborvitae along our fence on the west side of the house late last summer. It is now mid March and they are turning brown. I'm assuming it's winter damage due to cold, ice and wind. I need to know what to do about it. One looks really bad. Do I cut off the brown parts or just leave it alone. My fear is they will all die on me and all our hard work will have been for nothing.
A. Without seeing what the trees look like, it is difficult to diagnose what the problem is. My advice would be to just leave them alone and give them a good fertilizing in about 3-4 weeks. I would recommend a slow release organic granular fertilizer. I always use Pro Gro by North County Organics. It is really excellent. Give each plant approximately 1/2 cup around the base and really work it into the soil. That should help to give them the jump start and recovery they need this spring. Depending on how they respond, you may need to repeat the feeding again in early June. I would not feed them after that. Seems to me that where they are may be a difficult winter site in terms or weather conditions and you may want to protect them next year from the wind, etc. I would be very interested to know how they respond. Good Luck!
Q. Was recently given 3 single shoots (stalks) with roots from a mature Rose of Sharon bush. Right now I have them in water, because I am not sure how to plant them. Can I just dig a hole and plant them in a rock garden? Will they survive? Or should I plant them in a planter of sorts until they grow a little?

Should I group the 3 stalks or can I plant them separately? About 6 feet apart? What type of fertilizer should I use? Have looked online, but most information on transplanting gave info for an entire bush. I just have these 3 shoots. Would appreciate as quick a response as you can give. I don't want them to die!
A. I would go ahead and plant them as soon as possible. You will want to use a compost rich planting mixture and fertilize with an organic slow release granular fertilizer. Dig a hole just large enough for the roots and water thoroughly. It is very important to watch them and keep them well hydrated for the first 3-4 weeks. You can plant them separately and 6' apart would be fine. Plant them in a sunny location in a site that is well drained. Good Luck!
Q. I have 25 laborites along my yard. We have had them for about 3 years. Now they are browning from the base upwards. What can I do to save them?
A. Arborvitae do, sometimes, fall prey to insects and the damage that they can cause. Without seeing the trees, naturally, it is difficult for me to make a diagnosis. However, if they have been fine in the past and the care of them has remained the same as well as the environment that they are in i.e. no change in any new construction going on near them, etc. then my suggestion would be to call in an arborist who can determine if in fact it is insects and what can be applied to save the trees. The sooner they are treated the better and the problem will only worsen. Good Luck!
Q. I recently purchased a home in southeastern Arizona. We are situated on a mountain desert 4600 feet in altitude. In the yard is a baby lilac bush that has not been cared for adequately. It has 3 or 4 branches coming up from the ground, but there no green leaves. It does however look as if there are a couple of buds trying to form. I would like to know if you have any ideas on how I can help this plant maybe rejuvenate. Any help you can give will be deeply appreciated.
A. My advice to you would be to condition the soil surrounding the bush with some nutrient-rich compost. You want to supply the plant with nutrition and also help to retain some moisture since you are in a desert region. I would recommend digging up the plant (if small enough to do so) and replacing the soil surrounding it. Fertilize at the same time with a slow-release organic granular fertilizer and keep it very well watered but not soggy for approximately 3 weeks and see what happens. It really should respond well. Good luck and please let me know how it does.
Q. Hello, I live in lower Michigan, zone 5, and would like to plant pink parasols spirea which grow to 2-3 feet tall. When would be a good time to trim them back-- fall or spring?
A. You would want to trim these in the fall.
Q. We live in lower Michigan and grow many hostas. In the fall of the year they turn brown. Should they be cut back and to what length?
A. Yes, the hostas should be cut back in the fall. Cut the foliage all the way back to the base of the plant leaving approximately 2" of plant at the base. Remove all cut back foliage from the garden.
Q. We had some knockout roses planted this spring, and we are now concerned about protecting them from our cold and windy winters, in Illinois. Should we trim them now and them use some type of protection over the tops of the bushes? They are so beautiful, we do not want them to die over the winter. Any suggestions?
A. Yes, knockout roses really are very beautiful and they perform so well giving you lots and lots of blooms all season long. You definitely should protect them. What I recommend is not to do any pruning now but rather deadwood and prune in the spring. For winter protection, wait until the weather truly turns toward winter meaning that the leaves are all off of the trees and the weather is colder. Don't wait until it snows though. For instance, I am writing to you from the northeast and I cover the roses here during the first or second week or November depending on the weather. You don't want to cover them too soon. You will use aged manure (be sure that it is aged and not fresh) and put approximately 2 - 3 "shovel fulls" around the base of the plant and then top dress it with hay. You don't have to cover the plant entirely with the hay just far enough up to begin covering the canes. It's the base of the plant that we want to protect - not so much the canes. Then in late March or early April (again, depending on the weather) you want to uncover them. Don't leave them covered for too long. Just when it begins to warm up and you know that the threat of really cold weather and snow has past and spring is on its way, uncover them. You can also spread the manure around the ground and work it into the soil at the base of the plant at this time which will give your roses a wonderful early spring feed. They will thank you for taking such good care of them by giving you their glorious blooms to enjoy all summer long!
Q. I live in SE Wisconsin (Milwaukee area). My burning bush needs some trimming. When is the best time to do this?
A. I always recommend trimming burning bushes when the leaves have all fallen. This is a much better time because you can really see the branch structure, therefore, making much better decisions for pruning. It is much better for the plant at this time as well. Anytime between the end of October and the beginning of March would be best.
Q. We have had ornamental grass for the past three years which grows to about 5-6 feet. It has been beautiful in the winter months. We have cut back to 1/4 its height in the early spring. As the new green grass grows in, it only grows around the outside of the circular center. This leaves a large circular area of "dead" grass about a foot high inside the green grass. Is this ok? If not, what should we do and when should we do it?
A. From what you are describing to me, it sounds as though the plant needs to be divided. I would suggest doing it sometime in mid October. Take a spade and "slice" into the root system of the plant preferably in the back where your thinning won't be as noticeable. Take about 1/3 of the plant out and transplant that piece if you'd like. When transplanting be sure to use a good rich compost mixture and fertilize the new planting. Be aware that the root system of established ornamental grasses can be quite deep and tight. It may take some muscle to thin that grass. You will probably find that you'll want to thin it every other season just to keep the center of the plant from not browning out. Good luck!
Q. What is the best way and time of year to divide and transplant Black Eyed Susans? I live in Northern NJ.
A. The best time to divide black-eyed susans is anytime from the end of September to the end of October. By using a transplanting tool, such as a spade, simply slice down into the center of the plant and by "pushing" away from the plant that you want to keep, gently dig out and remove the division. If it is the entire plant that you want to dig up and divide, then when you have the plant out of the ground, slice it into sections using your spade. By sure to cut off all flowers prior to transplanting and use a good, rich compost-based planting mixture when transplanting. Keep them well watered for approximately 2-3 weeks after transplanting not allowing them to dry out. Good luck!
Q. I have 5 knockout roses (blushing pink). They had one great bloom. Now it has been several weeks and I do see some new growth on some but not on all of them. The new growth doesn't even have buds yet. All the knockouts I see around here, seem to be in constant bloom, not any of mine though. I purchased the five this year, and I have two that I planted two years ago with the same problem. My other roses are all out blooming them. What do you think? They're getting plenty of sun. I'm in Indiana.
A. Knockout Roses are just great! I am very familiar with this variety and yes, it is a great performer. You said that these roses do get plenty of sun. That's good. My thought would be feeding. They are, as are all roses, very heavy feeders. I feed mine in the spring with a slow-release organic, granular fertilizer, then I feed them again in June or the very earliest part of July and finally, when I put them to bed in the fall, I supply them with an early spring feed at that time. I have found them to do extremely well. As long as you keep them well fed, well deadheaded and protected in the winter, they should perform beautifully.
Q. When is the time to trim down my iris's, most have turned brown no flowers left., also they have multiplied and need thinning out, so when can this be done?.strong>
A. The only care I would give your iris at this time of year is deadheading (removing the dead flowers). This is done by cutting the flower all the way back to the base of the plant. As far as thinning/dividing is concerned, I would wait until the fall to do this. Anytime after Labor Day and before Halloween.
Q. What is the best shape to trim a burning bush into? Seems a ball shape is the only choice.
A. I like to see burning bushes trimmed very naturally. No need to trim them into a "ball shape". Yes, they do grow in a somewhat round fashion, however, if you prune them with pruners and not hedge shears you are better able to maintain a very nice natural look to them
Q. I have three rhododendrons there were root balled when purchased. They seem to be dying, they were blooming beautifully when purchased, I planted them in amended soil using Miracle Grow garden soil and bloom buster in a shady garden. They stopped blooming almost immediately. I sprinkled bone meal for azaleas/rhododendrons and still they look as through they are on their last leg. I left the proper amount of the root ball exposed. How can I get them to bloom next year (providing they live through the winter)? They seemed to be healthy when purchased. I don't want to lose them. Can you help me please?
A. Difficult question to answer without actually seeing the plants. A couple of things come to mind though. First of all, were they well watered when planted and continue to be well watered for approximately 3 - 4 weeks after planting? This is a crucial step in the planting process especially as you are suggesting that you planted them in a shady area perhaps under trees where they may not be able to get as much natural rain due to the canopy of the trees. The other thought would be a "blight" or disease that the plants need to be sprayed for immediately. Rhododendrons, especially the Catawba variety, are very susceptible to this especially if they were left to dry out for too long putting the plant under stress or if they came from a nursery that had this problem. When you purchased them, they may have looked fine, however, if they were to have come into contact with a plant at the nursery that had it, they may have been carrying it and it showed up later after you got it home and planted it. Check with your nursery and ask if they have had any problems with this. If you wanted to send along a picture, I may be able to help more. Good luck!
Q. Hi! I'm moving into a new home next week and I've noticed that a lilac bush has been planted in the back yard in a very shady area. I figure the plant is at tops four years old and the blooms are a dark dark purple. I have different plans for this area of the yard but don't want to just chuck the plant. So I figured I would separate the shoots and move it to the front yard where they would get more sun. Only problem is, I've never done this before and have no idea where to start, much less cut. Can you recommend a site or book that has step by step pictures of this process? Thanks!
A. I am sorry that I do not know of a site or book that can explain the process. Without going into a tremendous amount of detail what I can tell you is to prepare the area where you want to move the plant first. Dig the hole approximately 2 times the size that the plant is in now, amend the soil with whatever planting mixture you use and water the hole well. Then go ahead and dig up the plant, taking as much of the root system as you can, and place it in the newly prepared planting hole. It would be best for the plant to move it on a cloudy day or early in the morning. It would be best to avoid moving it in the middle of the day. Also, be sure to fertilize after you backfill the hole and water very, very well. The most important thing you can do to insure the success of the transplant is to keep it very well watered. Also, if you can wait until the fall, preferably late fall, to move it, it would be even better. Good luck with it!
Q. I have a lenton rose where the flowers have bloomed and now are faded and spotted. Should I cut these faded flowers off?
A. Yes, the flowers should be removed. Cut the flower stem all the way back to the base of the plant.
Q. I was so happy to receive a reply, so promptly, regarding my coral bells. Now, I have another question. We live in the middle of Illinois and we are having a terrible problem with earwigs. They are eating everything! We have tried "Eliminate" "Seven spray" and powder and nothing seems to work. Also, I am concerned about contaminating the ground because we have and enjoy so many birds. What is a solution to our dilemma?
A. I am sorry but this is an area that I am unfamiliar with. I would recommend asking an exterminator or some sort of pest control company. I don't deal with or use pesticides at all just for the reason you mentioned about the birds and so forth. It would be nice if they could offer an environmentally safe solution. Good luck!
Q. I live in the Midwest have we have several soft pine bushes that are in need of trimming. When would you suggest that we trim? Is the 25% rule applicable to those bushes as well?
A. Yes, the 25% rule does apply. It's just best for the plant. Anytime after the trees have put out their new growth would be a fine time to prune them. Being the area of the country that you are in, I'm not exactly sure when that would be but I would guess to say that anytime after August should be fine. By then they should have all their new growth on for this season and you can prune them to the size you would like them but remember to keep the 25% rule in mind.
Q. Can you deadhead daylilies so more will bloom?
A. Yes, you can deadhead daylilies. Whether or not they will rebloom depends on the variety. Some varieties bloom only one time while others will continue to bloom after deadheading.
Q. I live in southwest Michigan and have a very old white lilac bush (probably 100-150 yrs old). I would like to saw off the old sagging limbs to encourage new growth. Many new upright branches have come up near the base of the bush. Is this the proper time to do this and how severely should I deal with this bush so as not to shock of kill it? I would appreciate any information you can send my way. Thank you!
A. You are so very lucky to have such an old lilac! Yes, you don't want to hurt it. The best time to prune the bush would be immediately after it is done flowering. You don't want to wait until later because you may prune off next year's flowers. As far as how much you can take off without hurting it, a good rule of thumb to follow is no more than 25% of the plant at a time. It may take you a few year's of pruning to get the bush exactly how you would like it but it is best to take it slowly in order to do the least damage to the bush. Also, it is always a good idea to give it some fertilizer when you are through pruning. I always recommend a slow-release, organic, granular fertilizer. That way it is fed a little bit over time. Good luck!
Q. Should you cut the hostas way down to the ground in the fall or leave them until spring?
A. It's best to cut the foliage back on the hostas in the fall.
Q. Black-eyed Susan's......once they've bloomed, is it best to trim down to the stocks or leave be?
A. Yes, it is best to trim the spent blooms or deadhead as it is called back to the basal foliage - all the green at the base of the plant.
Q. Hi - This is great, getting answers on line--------
When is the best time to trim Spirea bushes? I live in upstate New York in the Finger Lakes Region. Also my daylilies, Yarrow, black eyed Susans seen to spread so fast they need dividing every year or two. It is now September - can I cut back the foliage on these now without hurting the plants.
A. The best time to trim Spirea bushes truly depends on the variety. For those that bloom on old would, you would prune them in late spring or early summer immediately after they flower. The varieties that bloom on new wood, late winter or early spring pruning is recommended. You should, however, regardless of the variety you have, thin out up to one-third of the oldest stems each year as well as any overcrowded growth. Spirea will withstand rejuvenation pruning and can be cut to within a few inches of the ground if necessary.

As for your daylilies, yarrow, and black-eyed susans, you sure can go ahead and cut back the foliage on these as long as they are finished flowering. It is a bit early so you may have to do it again at the end of next month but go ahead and cut them back a bit if you want.
Q. Are you suppose to cut the dead bloom spouts from Hosta's? Once they have flowered, all that remains are the top heavy seed pods?
A. Yes, you are suppose to deadhead the Hostas. Cut the stem back all the way to the base of the plant leaving only the foliage remaining.
Q. What is the correct way to deadhead Stella Doro Lilies? Especially to promote continued blooming?
A. Once all flowers have finished blooming on a single stem, simply cut the stem back all the way to the base of the plant. Try to do this before a seed pod forms on the stem where the old flowers were. This will encourage the plant to produce more flowers rather then put its energy into producing seed.
Q. I have many Stella daylilies that need to be divided. Is fall or spring the best time to do this? Also, when you "deadhead" these daylilies, what do you take off? Do you take the whole flower stem or just the green nodule at the end of the stem? It is an endless task because I have so many!
A. The best time to divide these is in the fall. When you deadhead, be sure to take the entire flower stem all the way down to the base of the plant.
Q. I cannot get my coral bells to bloom. I pulled out the old plants and bought new ones, then when THEY wouldn't bloom I lifted each plant and filled a big hole with compost, etc. to no avail. The robust plants produce stems and buds that never full open and with scant color. The flower bed is mostly sun, and the ground has been amended over the years with compost, manure, lime, etc. and is otherwise very fertile for any other plants. Can you help?
A. Although I am not sure of the variety of coral bells you are writing about, some of them like to be a bit cooler i.e., part-shade to full shade conditions. A soil test may be helpful. Most farmer's markets offer such a service provided by Master Gardeners. They could recommend the soil amending necessary, if any, for perennials. Also, you did not mention fertilizing. I would recommend that once a year - preferably in the spring. I also recommend a slow-release, granular, organic fertilizer.
Q. Can I prune my burning bush now?
A. Yes, even though it is June, you can prune it now. An ideal time to prune it is in the very early spring. Keep in mind not to prune off more than 25% of the shrub at any one time.
Q. Can you please tell me when to cut a white bleeding hearts down. I have been letting it get all brown before I cut it, but it looks awful.
A. You are absolutely right to wait until it is all brown. However, to get you through that "looking terrible" period, you needn't wait until the entire plant is brown. You can cut the brown away as it turns brown. In other words, you will be slowly cutting it back rather than waiting until it is all brown. It's the tough part about the bleeding hearts, but they are so worth it.
Q. I have one more question to ask you. I have both pink and white baby's breath. When would be a good time to cut them to dry. I cut them last year and they did not dry correctly. The flower shrunk to a dot. They are the double flower and about 18" to 2' tall. I have dried baby's breath before (that I have bought) hung them upside down in a dark room and they dried just fine. I don't know what I did wrong. I use them for dried flower arrangements and for crafts so I don't want to do anything to the flowers until I know what to do. The flowers are just about in full bloom now and very beautiful. I don't want to ruin them again this year.
A. I would cut them when they are in full bloom. Try with just a few cuttings to begin with and tie them with a string or rubber band and hang them upside down in a well-ventilated spot so that the air can circulate through them - perhaps the rafters of a shed or garage. I wouldn't put them in the dark - the light should be just fine. I'd love to hear back as to how it works for you.
Q. We planted fountain grasses last year and it did very well .This year its dead its all brown and crispy. Is it dead or is it slow to come up ?
A. The ornamental grasses need to be cut back either in the fall or in the spring. All that "brown and crispy" is perfectly normal. Use hand pruners and simply cut away all that dead grass and you will find that within a day or two they will begin to green up. Cut them short - all the way down to the base of the plant.
Q. My daughter has just bought her first home, and I have promised to do the garden for her as a 'first home' present. The garden small and very narrow, (11ft by 33ft), and the only access to the garden is from through the fence at the back of the garden. The last 8ft of this garden, there is a very steep slope. Her next door neighbor has erected a trellis at the top of their slope, but this renders the garden behind useless. Can you suggest what we can do in the sloped bit of the garden to make it a useful space.
A. My suggestion would be to erect some sort of a trellis going perpendicular to the existing fences. This would allow you to use such things as climbing roses, various vines and the like to give not only a nice backdrop to the garden but also some privacy to the yard itself and adding some height to that slope. Otherwise, your plantings in that area will be lost. I hope that helps.
Q. Can you give me some advice as to what I can plant over a tulip bed? This is located in a shady area during the late-spring through fall. We would like something that would not affect the tulips coming up in spring, but would be a groundcover for summer and fall and maybe have some color during summer. Are we better off digging up the tulips and storing them and planting annuals in the bed until fall?
A. You can certainly plant other things intermingled with the tulips. There are many varieties of shade-loving perennials that would do well mixed in with the tulips. If, however, your goal is to have a ground cover for this area, I would recommend myrtle. It has small periwinkle colored flowers late spring through fall and is evergreen. It will allow the tulips to come up as long as it does not disturb its roots. It will, like all ground covers, fill in fairly densely after awhile. Probably the easiest and best way to solve your problem is to intermingle some perennials in. It will save a lot of work in the long run and give you best of both worlds.
Q. I have three 10 ft. emerald green arborvitae that I would like to transplant. What is the best way to go about this. I need to do it now. How much root base should I try to achieve.
A. Those are very large and very mature trees to be moving. Now is definitely not the best time of year to be doing this. I would recommend mid October. However, if you have to do it now, be sure to have the holes that the trees are going into dug first. Be sure to measure and have them roughly 12" wider than the tree all the way around to allow for proper backfilling. Be sure to backfill with a good soil composition preferably a compost rich one. Be patient when backfilling so as to be sure all air pockets are removed so as to not injure the roots of the tree. Fertilize when planting is complete, apply a layer of 2"-3" of shredded bark mulch and stake. Remove the staking after one year. Good luck!

Also, be sure when digging the trees for transplanting to dig straight down from all sides of the trees to assure you get the best quantity of roots. Stay a short distance away from the tree itself and be sure to dig as straight down as you can - not on an angle. As far as how deep to go, take as much root ball as you can handle. The more the better.
Q. I have a Russian Olive that has leaves that are curling under lengthwise. I have searched the undersides for spider mites and aphids, but haven't found anything. Any ideas?
A. My first thought would be insects. I would definitely suspect aphids. Although you cannot see them, they may be present just the same. I would search out a safe and organic, if possible, spray at your favorite garden center and treat that way. Follow the recommended directions.
Q. I recently heard that you have to be careful how you cut a lilac flower. Can you please tell me how far down on the stem the lilac flower should be cut.
A. These large shrubs flower on old wood. Therefore, by cutting the lilac flowers off you are really encouraging more flowers for next year. Just cut down the stem enough to hold the stem in the vase you are using. No need to be afraid of cutting too much, just enough for them to stand in the vase. They actually will really appreciate the pruning. Should any spent blooms be left on the shrub, be sure to prune them off immediately when they are done flowering. You will be encouraging abundant flowering for next year. Enjoy!
Q. Hello, I live in Western North Carolina, and I have approximately 12 azalea bushes. They are beautiful, they have bloomed already, can I prune them back now. They never been pruned, and I have had them for about 6 years. Some of them bloom twice a year. Can I take cuttings from them and start new ones?
A. Azaleas generally require very little pruning. Being, however, that you have had them for so long and they have never been pruned, you certainly can do that. You would prune them immediately after they have finished flowering. Prune away any dead or rubbing branches. Take your time and be patient. Be sure to step back away from the plant after a few cuts so that you are sure that you are keeping its form while pruning

Also, be sure to not prune off more than 25% of the plant at any one time. Also, do not shear them as you will hinder their future flower production by pruning them in this way. Use hand pruners. As far as taking cuttings, you certainly can try. I would recommend a rooting hormone and a good soil mixture. Check with your favorite local nursery for supplies and more information.
Q. I recently divided my daylilies and replanted in a new location(May5,2006) They were not showing any signs of blooms only green shoots. Well, though I am watering and my divisions still have a great amount of roots(I am not sure of the proper name for the roots- They are as large as some of my fingers. The plants are several years old.) The plants are begriming to wilt and turn yellow. Should I cut the plants back and wait for new growth. The variety is called "Pardon Me" and I believe they are mid-summer bloomers. I have others that I need to transplant and will need to move them before the hot weather sets in.
A. The plants seem to be displaying signs of stress. I would suggest continuing with your watering schedule - not too wet - probably just enough to keep the soil moderately moist and also be sure to fertilize them. I would suggest using an organic, slow-release, granular fertilizer. You can take off the yellow leaves but I would not cut them back entirely. It's a very hard time of year to transplant daylilies. I would suggest not transplanting the others until fall - sometime between the middle of October and early November. At that time you can transplant them using a rich compost mixture, fertilize them and cut them back all the way. They will be very forgiving and do beautifully for you next season. These, however, that you have already done this year are going to need a bit of "babying" along. Good Luck!
Q. Is it ok to prune my burning bush in early May after it is full of green foliage or should I wait until next spring before it buds?
A. The best time to prune it is in the early spring before it leafs out, however, you will not harm the plant if you prune it now. Just remember to not prune off more than 25% of the plant at one time. Also, be sure to fertilize it after pruning.
Q. I understand that blood meal is good for trying to keep rabbits away, but is there any other purpose? Should I be using it on my hosta or coral bells?
A. Blood meal is a wonderful way to organically add nitrogen into your soil. Nitrogen is naturally depleted from the soil by the bark mulches that are applied to the landscaped beds. So, yes, your coral bells and hostas would probably love some. Keep in mind, however, that blood meal needs to be applied very sparingly because of its susceptibility to leaching. Therefore, it's very important to completely follow the instructions on the bag before applying. You need only a very small amount. Also, do not apply right at the base of the plant, where you apply your fertilizer. Instead, apply in any open areas of the beds where there is no plant material and it will be used and absorbed very nicely. As far as the rabbits go, I have heard that blood meal can be a deterrent to them.
Q. I have a real concern with my arborvitae. I planted them about 10 years ago and for the first 8 years they were very green and healthy looking. They have grown in height about a foot per year and I guess that is normal. The problem in the last couple of years is they are getting thinner and brown from the bottom up. The tops are green but they no longer look healthy. I'm very concerned because I have 70 arborvitae.

Should we add fertilizer? They get plenty of water and sunshine.

A. Without being able to physically inspect them, I would be hesitant to recommend a treatment. I do, however, suspect insect damage or disease just by the pictures. Contact your local extension service and see if they can send a tree expect over to inspect with some recommendations or ask a reputable nursery person to come by. For future reference, keep in mind, that with a situation such as this, they began not looking well a couple of season's ago, it's best to get professional advice immediately. Good luck and I would be very interested to hear how you make out.
Q. My Louisiana Iris have nearly finished blooming. Should I deadhead them and if so how? I have heard one should not deadhead iris because that is where they store nutrients for further growing?
A. Yes, once your iris are finished blooming, you can deadhead them. You will want to cut the flower portion of the plant only. You do not want to cut the foliage down. Cut the stem of the flower all the way where it meets the base of the plant. It's a good idea to do this so that the plant does not set seed. By allowing it to set seed, you take energy away from the plant itself. So go ahead and cut those dead blooms off.
Q. My question is actually for my neighbor. She has a Rhododendron Olga Mezitt, and she said that the past three to four years the plant is receiving buds on times, but the buds never actually bloom. We are both wondering if possibly you can offer any advice or even a reason why this is acting this way. It is GREATLY appreciated! And we both look forward to hearing from you soon.
A. I have a few suggestions. Be sure that the plant is in an organically rich soil. It will do much better if it were planted in this way. Also, Rhododendrons like to be slightly acidic. You can accomplish this in a variety of ways. Mulch the base of the plant with peat moss, oak leaves or pine needles. You can also buy a commercial product, if you would prefer, and apply that. Also, be sure that the plant has been planted in the proper light. The particular variety of Rhododendron that you are asking about like to be kept cool. Be sure that it is not exposed to the midday sun. Also, fertilize it. That can be done anytime now until about mid-June. We recommend our slow-release, organic fertilizer. Any previous blossoms should also be pruned away after flowering each year. That technique is something that I can't really explain but rather something you would need to see how to do. Finally, to assure its success, be sure that the plant is not competing with weeds at the base but rather has a nice circle with all vegetation removed and mulch applied. If all of these instructions have been followed, I am sure you will really see results. Your rhododendron will be happy and show you how much with the beauty of it's lovely blooms.

If there are other symptoms that I am unaware of such as perhaps insect damage or disease, please write back and I will try to help further
Q. When should I prune my "Burning Bush" ?
A. You can remove dead or damaged wood at any time. It is usually easiest to prune burning bush in late winter or very early spring because the branch structure is easy to see.
Q. Thanks for the opportunity to get info. My question is in regards to Arborvite, which are growing too tall. I know trimming should be done in May/June. I'd like to lower the present Height --but fear I'll chop them into an "Ugly" shape. Please offer any suggestions on "how to lower & shape" them.
A. The best way to avoid making them "ugly" would be to trim off the newest growth at the top and along the sides and be rather gentle about trimming into the older or more "woody" growth. You can trim the older wood, however, take your time and do so gradually so as not to leave them "ugly". If they have not been trimmed in a few years, it may take time (a few years of trimming) to get them back down close to the height you would like without jeopardizing their looks. Be sure to give them a good dose of fertilizer (perhaps a granular organic kind for slow absorption) after trimming. You can do some trimming now but only feed after you trim in May/June of next year. Take your time and be patient with them and they will respond beautifully.
Q. I have daylilies and iris', should I cut them back and if so, when?
A. Anytime now is a great time to cut back both your daylilies and iris. Keep in mind, though, that if any of your varieties of daylilies are still blooming, be sure to wait until they have stopped.
Q. I have two Arborvite's that I would like to trim. When is the best time to do this?
A. The best time to trim arborvitae is late May or early June.
Q. How do you deadhead daylilies???
A. Deadheading daylilies is done by removing the flower stem all the way back to the leaf. This is best done with a pair of pruners. After the flower has finished blooming and preferably before it sets a seed pod, simply cut back the flower stem.
Q. I have several species of daylilies. When is the best time to divide the daylilies? If you deadhead the daylilies, does it make the plant fuller or spread?

I want to know the names of the dwarf daylilies species as I prefer the smaller ones.
A. The best time of year to divide daylilies is in the fall. By deadheading the daylilies, you do not make the plant fuller or make it spread, they just do that naturally. By deadheading the plant, you are doing a wonderful thing. If it is a continual bloomer, you are promoting new flowers. If not, you are helping the overall health of the plant anyway. It's a great thing to deadhead.

I'm not quite sure exactly what you mean by "dwarf daylilies". There are some varieties that are shorter than others such as Stella 'Doro.
Q. I grow jacob's ladder in my flower garden and it always looks so nice until just before it blooms. At this time, the foliage always turns yellow. Is there anything I can do about this problem? Your suggestions would be appreciated.
A. I would recommend adding some blood meal (or dried blood) to your soil. This contains nitrogen which is essential to beautiful foliage. Give it a try. It certainly cannot hurt and can only help not only your Jacob's Ladder but you can use it around all of your perennials. We carry it at the Garden Center. I use it in all the gardens that I care for and really love the results. Happy Gardening!
Q. I love cornus alba in the winter ('red sticks' as my husband calls it) and want to encourage as much red as possible next winter. Should I cut the whole plant back immediately as its already starting to flower? Some of the 'sticks' are very high - up to four or five feet tall - will I get that much growth if I - in effect - raze the plant almost to the ground?
A. I, too, really enjoy the look of cornus alba (tatarian dogwood) especially in the winter. Since young wood is the most colorful, I would recommend cutting approximately one-third of the oldest stems to the ground either in late winter or early spring. You can also rejuvenate the plant by cutting all the stems to within 2-3 inches of the ground. Should you decide to do the latter, I cannot guarantee that you will have the same size plant for winter enjoyment as you presently have. You may have to be a bit more patient. Also, be sure to give it a good feeding this spring. It will be so thankful!
Q. I have iris plants that I had gotten from a friend in Vermont back in 1999 and they have spread a lot but I still have yet to see them flower. We have very sandy soil here in the area I live in Connecticut. Is there something that I need to do to get them to bloom. Would be nice to see those beautiful flowers in my backyard this year. Any advice?
A. Yes, it would be nice to see them bloom. My advice would be to be sure that you have them planted in a nice sunny spot. Iris' like to be warm and in well-drained rich soil. Perhaps amending your soil with a complete planting mixture consisting of topsoil, peat moss, compost and a slow-release fertilizer would help. Also, be sure to feed them well this spring. I would suggest a granular, organic fertilizer such as the one we use. You mentioned that they had spread. That's great but be sure that they don't become too compacted. That's not beneficial for them. Good luck and let me know if you see any color this year!
Q. I planted several juniper arborvites and have watered them and kept them fertilized but they are still turning brown and dying. Will new growth appear or do I need to dig them out? I live in Michigan and had them planted around July two years ago. They are planted in good top soil and I watered them very well when planted and also on a regular basis. I fertilized them last year in the spring and again in the fall.
A. Sure sounds as though you are taking very good care of them. What I think of, without actually seeing how much "browning" is going on, is the natural "hardening off" process in which the foliage closest to the center of the tree turns brown, dies and falls off and then "flushes out" in the spring with new growth. It's a natural process that arborvitae go through. However, the Dark American variety don't tend to do it quite so much thus having it be much less noticeable. This is my variety of choice. If you'd like to perhaps send along a picture, I'd be happy to take a look and see if in fact it is something else. Other than that I would say check the trees for any sort of disease or insect activity - anything that looks unusual. If nothing is noticeable, apply a good (I prefer organic) fertilizer rather heavy in the spring along with a fresh layer of mulch to control soil temperature and retain moisture and see how they do. Hope this is helpful! You'll have to let me know how they do.
Q. I am interested in planting Hellebores in my garden, I have the perfect spot for them, winter sun, summer shade. What I would like to know is, what is the plant's habit once it has bloomed in early spring? Does the plant retain it's foliage for the season, or should I plan for other plants to fill in after the Hellebore blooms?
A. Lenton Rose (Hellebore) one of my absolute favorite spring bloomers. They perform so beautifully. Sounds as though you have the perfect spot for them. After they finish flowering, they should be deadheaded i.e., removing the seed heads from the plant. They will retain their foliage which is very attractive. However, if you'd like continual color in that spot once they have gone by, may I suggest perhaps Hosta in particular the "Gold Standard" variety. Very showy foliage to brighten up a shady spot. Some other nice choices to complement that area would be Geranium - cranesbill Blood-red or perhaps the Lancaster variety. Both mixed together give you the boldness of one and the softness of the other. Very nice together. Ferns, although only green, are a very nice complement in terms of foliage and texture. Some varieties that I may suggest would by Maidenhair and Soft Shield - they work very nicely. Another thing to keep in mind is that Lenton Rose are prolific self-seeders. Be sure to do your deadheading or you'll find them where perhaps you don't want them.

I hope this was helpful. I know you'll really enjoy them. Please write again and let me know how lovely your garden turns out as I'm sure it will.
Q. My husband ran over the neighbors lilac bush with his snowmobile. If branches just broke off, but it is still intact in the ground, will it come back in the Spring, or will it die?
A. That would really depend on the extent of the damage. If only a few small branches were broken, I would have to say "Yes" it will be fine and simply need a pruning. However, if the branches that were broken were quite large in diameter, then the shrub will be in a bit more shock. It probably won't die completely but it's shape and blooms can certainly be compromised.

Please let me know come spring how you make out.
Q. I have a large lilac bush and a mock orange bush. Should I cut them back and when should I do this? I live in Pa.
A. You would not completely cut back the lilac bush. You would prune it after it flowers in the spring/summer. It is beneficial to also remove old flowers at this time. Prune away any dead wood or branches that interfere with the bush's overall shape. The mock orange you would prune at the same time - after flowering. However, you can cut this plant back quite a bit at the same time to encourage new growth or simply prune as you would the lilac.
Q. Can I grow Day lilies indoors?
A. They may grow, however, I would be very apprehensive about doing so because I do not believe they will truly thrive. The root system on daylilies is such that it is not meant to be in a container. They need the room and the soil conditions offered in a garden setting to really do well. Should you decide to try it for a full season, please write with your results. I know I would be quite interested in how they do and I am sure all our readers would be as well.
Q. My church has decided to plant around the church sign. My problem is the grounds job is mine and the youth area. I've always found if I like a plant, I take it home, plant it and pray. Unfortunately, I cannot do it this way this time.

They have decided there will be a small plot on each end of the sign. It is in full sun. No green, they want color. something that will come back year after year and keep its color most of the year. Nothing that will grow over the sign. Any ideas would be ever so appreciated. - Karen
A. Yes, there are so many suggestions for lots of color all season long! If you would like to do perennials, there are many to choose from - things like iris, daisies, and black-eyed susans. You would, however, need to select things in order of blooming so that you would have color all season long. Perennials also can be a little bit of work. So keep in mind that you would want someone to tend to them perhaps twice a month or so.

If you would rather go with a lower maintenance type solution, perhaps a shrub such as a potentilla or a spirea would work. They flower all summer and don't require hardly any maintenance other than an annual feeding and trimming.

Stop in at the nursery and take a look. Our friendly and helpful staff would be more than happy to show you a few ideas!
Q. I was given a Martha Washington geranium and most of the flowers have fallen off or the rain has knocked them off. Should I deadhead the plant as I do other geraniums? Is there something in particular that I should do to encourage the plant to keep flowering?
A. Yes, you should "deadhead" the plant as you are by removing all of the dead flowers. Also, it would be great to fertilize it when doing your normal watering - perhaps every other time. By doing that not only will you keep the plant healthy but also encourage new flowers.
Q. When do I prune a burning bush shrub? (What time of year?)
A. You can prune your burning bush as soon as the new growth is all flushed out - meaning all that bright green new foliage - so now is a fine time to do it.
Q. My Iris has flowered, what should I cut back on the plant - the flower or the whole stem that the flower grew on?
A. You will want to cut back the flower portion of the plant only. You do not want to cut all the foliage down. That is not done until the fall. Cut the stem of the flower all the way down to where it meets the base of the plant.
Q. I have a balsam tree, which is a perfect height for my backyard. I don't want it to get much taller. Can I cut off the top shoot to prevent growth? Should I do this before winter? Is there anything special I should do? - Mary G.
A. Mary, thanks so much for your question. It is a good one. The answer is yes, you can control the size of your tree by pruning it. You will want to trim the entire tree, not just the top. By doing this you will keep the tree in good form. You may shear with either a hedge trimmer or hand prune. You may do this at any time during the growing season (spring - fall), but with evergreens you do not want to prune in the winter. Always fertilize to help keep your tree nourished. Hope this helps you!
Q. I have 2 clematis and am not sure whether I should prune them this fall or wait until spring... or if I should prune them at all. Both have flowered this year. What do you suggest? - Mary G.
A. It is best to prune them in late winter or early spring, before new buds appear. Cut them back to the lowest pair of strong buds annually. The flowers will grow on the new wood.